Happy Ever After and the Milford Track


Next week marks 2 years since I hiked the Milford Track in New Zealand. It is then, perhaps fitting that Happy Ever After will also be published next week. Why fitting? Because the Milford Track and Queenstown feature quite heavily in this story.

Over 100 years ago the Spectator magazine declared Milford “the finest walk in the world” – and although I have limited experience of these things, they weren’t wrong. It is way more than fine.

My Milford experience wasn’t an entirely happy one even though the track itself was as wildly beautiful as everyone says that it would be.

The finish line

This tramp – 54km or 33.5 miles (all the distance markers are in miles) – over glacier-fed rivers, through luxurious beech forest and up and over the alpine crossing that is the MacKinnon Pass – is a truly beautiful one. Yet while I finished the Routeburn Track only a couple of years earlier feeling as though I could do anything I set my mind to, there were a lot of moments on this one – particularly on day 3 with the Mackinnon Pass crossing – where I felt as though it had broken me.

It wasn’t just the rain – although it did rain steadily for the first 3 days. I’d gone with the guided walk option so even though we were soaked through by the end of each day, drying rooms and hot showers soon had us toasty and warm. Besides, rain is part of the landscape down here – and its beauty is even more dramatic in the rain.

No, my experience was marred by a lack of adequate training. This is rated a moderate walk and doable for most people with average fitness. I, however, had not prepared as well as I could have and should have.

2016 was a horror of a year with nasty unexpected surprise on top of nasty unexpected surprise. One after the other. Friends, jobs, finances, losses. We don’t need to get into the unpleasant detail. Between a daily 3 hour commute and all the other stuff that was happening, getting into a regular training pattern was difficult and my head was not where it needed to be.

As a result, I’d trained for the distances and the flat, but not for the uneven ground and certainly not for Mackinnon Pass. After the year that I’d had it felt as though the Pass had broken me into bits. I’m glad now that it did feel that way as I was able to use the experience when I was writing Kate’s story in Happy Ever After.

Day 1

Day 1 involved mostly getting to the start of the track. After waking to news of an overnight earthquake in Wellington, we left Queenstown on a bus for Te Anau Downs (with a stop at Te Anau for lunch) and then a boat ride to Glade Wharf and the official start of the track.

Day 2

Day 2 was an easy tramp – 16kms (10 miles) over relatively flat ground in the pouring rain. The amount of rain meant that the waterfalls sprang from absolutely everywhere.

I tramped most of the day alone and it was immensely gorgeous and peaceful and all of those words I was hoping it would be.

That afternoon back at the lodge the keas – large and extremely cheeky alpine parrots – kept us amused with their comical antics – and an active demonstration of why you shouldn’t leave hiking boots outside your room to dry!

Day 3

Day 3 was different. Although the distance was slightly shorter than the previous day, it was a steep uphill climb to Mackinnon Pass and an even steeper descent.

Going up was physically tough and my lack of preparation showed. I was slow and sore. Once we got above the beech forest, the views though, were magnificent.

At the memorial at the top, the clouds miraculously cleared and we could see the valley below – and just how far we’d come.

After stopping for some lunch and to use the toilet with the best view in the entire world, we made our way down – slowly, with my toes banging into the front of my boots and what felt like knives driving into my knees. Going up was hard, but I spent the entire 4 hours going down being scared of every step I took in case I fell and hurt myself.

Day 4

The longest of the walking days – 21 kms or 13.5 miles – the terrain was a little rocky, and there were a number of suspension bridges to cross, but otherwise nothing too challenging. It was, in fact, a glorious day to be tramping.

At (aptly named) Sandfly Point we boarded a boat to take us across to our accommodation for the night at Mitre Lodge and a final night dinner with a real party atmosphere.

Day 5 – Milford Sound

On day 5 we woke to a magnificent blue day and a cruise boat in at Milford Sound.

Before heading back to Queenstown we did a cruise of Milford Sound. I’ve been fortunate enough to have been on Milford Sound a few times – twice on a short cruise like this one and once on an overnight cruise that I’ll never forget.

Anyways, these are views that would never get old. And the rain during the week just made the waterfalls even more impressive.

Would I do it again?

I’m not sure. Even though I said that I’d never ever ever do another long distance walk with a mountain in the middle again, it feels a little like unfinished business. Having said that, I’m planning another long distance challenge for early 2020 – if I can ever get this flipping ankle right.

Would I recommend it to others? Absolutely. This truly is a magnificent walk with magnificent views – even in the rain…or maybe especially because of the rain.

I struggled – as did a few of the others – because I hadn’t prepared as well as I should have. Everyone else appeared to manage it very easily. I remain in awe of the group of Victorian hikers – all of whom were well into their 60s – who bounded up and down that mountain with relative ease.

As for my character, Kate Spence, will she do it again? She doesn’t need to –  she got exactly what she needed to get from the experience.

Happy Ever After is now available for pre-order at a special price from Amazon and will be published in Australia on 17/11/18 and all other territories 18/11/18. This link will take you to the pre-order.

There’s a print version on its way, so watch this space.

If you want to read more about my experience on the track, the day by day posts can be found here.

It’s Lovin’ Life Linky time…

It’s Thursday, so it’s time to look for our happy and share it about a bit. The Lovin’ Life Linky is brought to you by Team Lovin’ Life: Deep Fried Fruit, DebbishWrite of the Middle50 Shades of Age,  and, of course, me.

21 Replies to “Happy Ever After and the Milford Track”

  1. Oh wow – it is so beautiful there! That is a lonnnng walk and as you said with some rather challenging bits! Reminds me kind of when I went into a 30km Brisbane Kokoda Challenge. 30kms – no problem! I can walk and walk and walk for miles … if it’s flat!! I had no idea that the Kokoda challenge was ALL massive hills with loose gravel. I nearly died. I was so unprepared. So slow. I really suffered. I couldn’t walk the next day and had to take the day off work. I should have read up more and known what I was getting in to. Well done to you for completing this walk. I would love to do it but only if I felt fit enough for it. The scenery would be so worth it! Congratulations on your new book coming out too! Exciting! 🙂 #TeamLovinLife

    1. Thanks Min. I was wrecked for ages afterwards & lost 5 toenails. It’s a tad like childbirth though – you forget the pain lol.

  2. This is such a gorgeous area Jo. I’ve cruised through Milford Sound but never done the walk which I’ve heard is challenging. I have trekked through the Blue Mountains though which was a great experience. You can’t beat nature can you? Have a beautiful week.

    1. You certainly can’t beat nature. This one is really doable for anyone with average fitness. Mackinnon Pass is always going to be a challenge, but if you’ve prepared its okay…

  3. Thanks for sharing your hiking experience with us Jo. I feel that sometimes these gruelling challenges are what either breaks us or makes us. Obviously in your case it made you and I think it’s an incredible accomplishment to be proud of. I would love to do this at some stage, but guess I need to do it before I get too old! Good luck with the book – the setting will be fabulous.

  4. I so remember you doing this and how hard it was. I did not know that “all that other stuff was happening too”. That you finished and got a book out of this…well, that IS major. Be kind to yourself for this WAS hard and yet you did it.

    Denyse x

    1. Yeah, there was a lot happening at that time that I kept to myself. But you know what Denyse? I reckon I can get a book at of pretty much anything lol…Seriously though, thanks for your kind words.

  5. Toes banging against boots is absolutely awful! I could feel the pain in my own toes from your very descriptive writing. Wishing you good luck on your book, and a speedy recovery for your ankle!

  6. I remember when you did it and it sounded kinda horrific – one of those make or break things. I don’t do much walking (of distance) and don’t do any ‘hill’ walking (on purpose) so I’d struggle.

    Off to pre-order my book now! So exciting!

Comments are closed.